Turin

Turin, Italy's Alpine Jewel

The city of Turin is distanced, geographically and culturally, from the languid Mediterranean style that became the Italian stereotype. At times the Torinese, meticulous, hard-working and fond of skiing, are more like the Swiss than Italians. That is, until it comes to food, when they are as obsessed with fine cuisine as any Roman or Neapolitan.

Order characterises Turin, starting with the street plan. All roads lead to the Via Roma, a broad and graceful avenue linking the grand railway station with the remains of the Roman theatre. Turin's version of the passeggiata evening stroll involves window-shopping in some of those exclusive fashion outlets that exemplify Italian style.

Turin isn't quite as fashion-obsessed as Milan. The intellectual side of the city thrives in the coffee-shops and bookstores of the Via Po, where the city gets solemn and thoughtful. The philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche couldn't get enough of its piazzas, and did some his best thinking over a Turin coffee.

He was intrigued by Turin's obsession with the occult and mystery. In medieval times the city was associated with alchemy and magic. Nostradamus, famous for his cryptically-worded predictions, lived on Via Michele Lessona. A modern Torinese mystic, Gustavo Rol, provided readings for Mussolini, JFK and Ronald Reagan.

Since 1587, Turin's spiritual claim to fame has been the controversial Shroud. When carbon dating suggested the fabric was only 700 years old, pollen analysts countered with evidence that the relic was much older. The Catholic Church tired of the arguments and limited access to the Shroud. It was last displayed in May 2010. It is kept hidden in the Cappella della Sacra Sindone in the impressive Cathedral.

For a serious city, Turin has one of Italy's most garish tourist attractions. The Mole Antonelliana looks like it has been assembled from leftovers from a Greek temple and an Egyptian pyramid, with a mini Eiffel Tower attached. The glass lift up to the tower parapet offers great views over the city and north to the Alps.

The bizarre building houses the Museum of Cinema. This being Italy, even the earliest magic lantern shows showcased the sort of scantily-clad girls who still feature prominently on Silvio Berlusconi's TV channels.

The locals love cinema, and the city supports a thriving art-house scene. It cannot compete though with one of Turin's obsessions; football. Torino was once the city's most prominent team, until the tragic loss of their greatest side in 1949, when their plane crashed into the Superga hill to the east of the city. Juventus, known as the "Old Lady", is now the dominant force in Turin, filling the brand-new stadium for most home games.

The other obsession is food. Piedmont cuisine is rich with butter and dairy produce. Typical dishes in Torinese restaurants will include the inevitable bagna cauda, a piquant sauce of butter, anchovy, olive oil and garlic that combines flavours of north and south.

Guido Gobino Cioccolato

Turin also has a sweet tooth. Some of Italy's finest chocolatiers such as Guido Gobino originate from the city. In March, the annual chocolate festival CioccolaTÒ finds local restaurateurs competing to come up with the most inspired chocolate recipes. It's an occasion when traditional Turin restraint is, for once, forgotten.